Shadow Lake, Uinta Mountains- September 2019

What I am going to share in this post is a recount of my weekend in the Uintas. I am still trying to process these events.

After a series of storms soaked Northern Utah midweek, there was a break in the action for the weekend. Me and a friend decided with the expected temps overnight, we would make the short two mile hike into Shadow Lake for an overnight backpacking trip. We made good time into the range on Saturday, and arrived to a pretty empty Crystal Lake Trailhead. The air was chilly and we bundled up, put on the packs, and made the walk in. The hike in was cold, with pockets of sun warming us as we made our way in on the trail. The meadows are now changing in their fall splendor. It was a beautiful walk and very quiet as we moved through the woods. After about 2 miles we arrived at Shadow Lake.

We made our way to the camp I wanted and got on some dry layers seeing as the temps were in the low 40's. We set camp and got our firewood situation settled. It was going to be a cold night so having a good fire was going to be key if I was going to stay up to shoot the stars. I decided to do some fly fishing while it was still tolerable before my hands would get cold. The lake was gorgeous and the clouds were just amazing to watch. There was a cold breeze blowing occasionally, and I am glad I packed the extra layers that I did. I thought I was going to get skunked when I hooked into a nice fish, got it near shore, and it wiggled off. This had me casting for a few more minutes till I landed this one pictured. My hands were cold from stripping a wet fly line so I made my way back to camp to get a fire going and to warm up. We spent a good part of the evening just staying close to the fire and staying bundled up.

Night fell and there were intermittent clouds with breaks where the stars would pop out. We had a clear window with the sky, so I walked solo out to the north side of the lake to try to get a good shot. It was cold away from camp and the dew point was making the plants and ground very wet. I got to the north end and the clouds obscured the view of the Milky Way. Sometimes you get them, and sometimes you don't. Being freezing cold, and feeling a bit defeated I returned to camp, stopping to set up my D810 for a star trail just on the shore below our camp. It was nice to get back to the fire. It was really beginning to get chilly and there was a cold wind blowing. I huddled by the fire for a bit just to warm up before I was going to attempt to make dinner. Little did I know one of the most terrifying experiences I have ever had backpacking was about to happen.

I had gone to my tent to get some warmer gloves, when I heard my partner take a fall and was moaning in agony. I immediately rushed to his aid, and it was clear right off the bat he had a serious leg injury. He had tried to step over a log, and did not see the other one on the other side and that is how he fell. I am not going to lie, the panic set in for me. It was dark, we had no cell reception, we were miles from help, and my friend was hurt. I quickly reverted to my survival knowledge and started to make a plan. I did not want him to be alone if I hiked out in the dark, in case there was shock or hypothermia. We met one of the campers across the lake from us earlier in the day. Really nice guy, and I had a nice conversation with him. I could see they were up from the glow of their fire, so I decided to ask them for help.

My plan was to have one of them stay with my friend while I hiked out for help. There was a nice gentleman named Phil, that said I should stay with my friend, and that him and his son would hike out to call for Search and Rescue. We could not move my friend, he was in too much pain, so we got his sleeping pad under him to insulate him from the ground. We covered him in multiple sleeping bags. I had some hand and feet warmers that I gave him to radiate some heat. We also put hot rocks around him on the ground to create a heat block. I did my best to keep my friend warm by keeping the fire blazing hot as we waited for Phil's return with Search and Rescue. My friend was going in and out of consciousness, and I was getting really worried. As the hours dragged on, and the temperatures dropped, I was feeling like this was going to not turn out well.

About 1:30 AM I saw a helicopter headed towards the lake. I ran out to the shore of the lake to signal them with my emergency light on my headlamp and arm signals. I can't feel my toes at this point and my hands and freezing even with gloves on. It was 29 degrees and everything was covered in frost making it a slippery mess. The helicopter made a few circles with a spotlight and was looking for a place to land. I tried to navigate them to the meadow above our camp but not sure if the pilot saw me. He looped out and over to what looked like the area were we parked, so I returned to camp figuring Search and Rescue was coming in on foot. About 30 minutes later, I could see headlamps coming and Phil was at the head of the pack and had brought rescue! I was so grateful and I have to admit was crying because I knew my friend was going to be ok. Search and Rescue got the helicopter into the meadow I was trying earlier to point out to the pilot from the ground. They put my friend in the Life Flight and off they went. I decided not to hike out then. It was 2:30 AM, I was exhausted, cold, upset, and just too emotional to to try to navigate in the dark. I turned in to try to get some sleep.

About 7:00 AM the Coyotes woke me up and were really near camp howling in a pack as they often do. It was 31 degrees and I was not about to get out of my sleeping bag until it warmed up a bit. By 8:00 AM I could not lay there anymore as my mind was still spinning about what happened. I got up and pretty much broke camp for about an hour and a half as it warmed up, and then hiked out. An hour or so later I was at the car and on my way back home. When I spoke to my wife I guess all the emotion spilled out because I was crying. In those moments when it is a survival situation you are in the moment, and the emotion is suppressed. But once at home I lost it. I am not gonna lie about that. This was one of the most terrifying experiences in my life. Sitting there with your friend, trying to keep them from going into shock, and hoping help is coming. I felt helpless. Everyone keeps saying I did the right thing but I felt like I did nothing. I just wanted my friend to live. Phil and his group across the lake deserve my eternal thanks and gratitude for their help. Without them this could have been much worse. We did everything right, had a plan, stuck to it, and were prepared. This is a prime example of you can do everything right, and it can still all go wrong. My friend ended up with a Fib/Tib and Ankle fracture. He will need surgery, but is ok which is the most important part. This just shows how quickly a beautiful day can quickly turn into a survival situation.

In all the chaos my camera was out on the shore recording a star trail and captured the flight path of the Life Flight as it circled the shore. This shot is of that. I am not sure if I'll get another trip in the Uintas this year before winter shows up. But one thing is for sure, more adventures to come. Be safe out there everyone.

Marjorie Lake, Uinta Mountains- September 2019

September is a fine time of year to backpack the Uintas. The bugs are pretty much done, the crowds get thinner as the month goes on, and the nights are long and great for photography. It's been a few years since I have been into Marjorie Lake. I decided to solo backpack in there over the weekend and set up camp, fish, and have a nice night by the fire with the moon high in the sky. I made the drive into the range early Saturday morning. It snowed for the first time in the range earlier in the week so I did not know what to expect on trail and at the lake. I found a spot and put on my new Vasque Breeze III GTX boots. My old boots wore out on the last trip so this was the maiden voyage in these. All I can say is wow! Right out of the box comfort, great traction, waterproof, and are 1 lb lighter than my previous boots. Once I was laced up and the pack was set I put on the gear and headed in. The temps were mild, not cold, but not hot, perfect hiking weather. I made a pretty quick push to the pass in about 26 minutes I was heading into the North Fork. No snow on the trail at all, just a few muddy spots. A quick descent to the Long Lake junction, then another quick hop down to the Marjorie Lake junction, and then the best part of this hike began. I love how this trail takes you through the pines.

About a mile later I was looking at the Marjorie Lake sign which is on a tree about a 1/4 mile before you actually get to the lake. Seems odd to put that sign there. Why not at the lake? I wonder how many people just walk by that tree and not even see the sign? Another Uintas mystery. One last downhill and I was at the lake. 1 hour and 24 minutes from car to lake. There was a family group hiking out I talked to that said there was another group camped on the other side of the lake. I thanked them for the info. There were 4 people on the other side fishing, and a dad and two little boys fishing on the dam. But I did not see any other tents or campers. I wandered the east side looking at camp spots. There were some nice sheltered ones if there was weather, but would have been cold in the morning until the sun moved higher in the sky. I meandered a bit more and found a spot that I just love! I set up camp, got my water situated, and my fire ready to go for the evening. That way if I was out fishing late I could come back to camp and just light it. I sat in my chair and soaked in the view from camp and put together my fly rod.

A buddy of mine told me about a few spots in the area to check out, so I figured I would fish Marjorie for a minute, then wander off in that direction. I landed some small pan fry size brooks at Marjorie to start off the day. I then moved on for a little adventure. I'm not gonna say where I went other than it was a beautiful and I will go back there. After fishing there for a couple of hours I decided to head back to Marjorie Lake and fish there until evening set in. The lake started to boil with fish rises! The action was on almost every cast as your fly would be savagely attacked! They were Graylings and I landed 16 of them in about two hours time. This Grayling in the picture doubled over my rod and was the best fight of the day! Dusk started to set and the day hikers left. I looped around the lake fishing until the sky started to turn orange then pink. I did not see anyone else camped at Marjorie Lake! I had it all to myself!

I got my fire going as the last of the sunset faded out and the night grew dark. I made dinner and then settled in waiting for the moon rise with a nice fire. It was the usually chilly at night in the Uintas. But the skies were clear and the stars were bright. I set out my camera for a star trail with the moon light painting the foreground. I had a really nice night by the fire. Solo backpacking is very therapeutic. Having a nice fire while solo backpacking doubly so. I let my camera run for a little over 3 hours. The image turned out very nice and the time-lapse is fun too. The moon was so bright as long as you were not in the shadow it was as bright as day. I took a walk out to the lake as my camera was finishing up its shots and what a wonderful view that was. I returned to camp, wrapped up things for the night, coaled out my fire, and turned in for some good sleep.

Sunday Morning greeted me with the howls of a pack of Coyotes somewhere across the drainage. They carried on for quite a bit, and I actually fell back asleep for another hour to the sounds they were making. When I rolled over about 8 it said 39 degrees. I got up and made tea and found a spot on a back porch like ledge overlooking the North Fork of the Provo River. There is a big meadow in the bottom of the drainage that I could see two moose in. I sat and enjoyed my coffee watching the moose do their thing. After breakfast I decide to pack it up and head out. I was on the trail by 10 AM. Once again the comfort and function of my new boots on the way out made it such a wonderful hike! I got to the Jeep in about 1 1/2 hours. I packed up the bag and changed out to my sandals and headed into Kamas for Tacos at Tacos De Sombrero. The Sweet Pork Tacos with Habanero Salsa are delicious! I am hoping the weather will hold out the next few weeks so I can finish out the season. This is a tricky time of year where everything can turn on a dime in an instant. The shadows run long from the trees and the days grow shorter. It can snow at anytime in the Uintas. I'll keep my eye on the weather. Hoping to get out on a couple of more trips out there! Enjoy the images! More adventures to come!

Cuberant Basin- 10 years- 2009-2019, Uinta Mountains- September 2019

Ten years ago I visited this basin for the first time here in the Uintas. I knew it was special the very first time I hauled a pack over that pass. This basin has a rich and dark history. I've had strange experiences in there myself, but also some really fun adventures over the years. I suspect when you mix adventure and mystery in the same place the appeal is obvious. I have done at least one trip every year for the last decade into this basin. I have been witness to and experienced, as well others who were with me, some puzzling to outright frightening experiences from in there that maybe one day I will share. I have noticed in the last decade that those who have been visiting this place have not been keeping it clean for others to enjoy. I have spent the last decade cleaning this area up every time I visit. This time was not as bad as previous trips. In fact, I would say in the last three years for the most part backpackers and hikers have been doing a pretty good job. I think more people have become educated about low impact and leave no trace camping practices and that is helping things. I'll take improvement whenever I can get it. Thanks to those who have visited this area and have tread lightly when you have stopped in for a spell. This area is one of my playgrounds here in the Uintas. If you go, leave it better than you found it. Cuberant Basin is special, let's keep it that way! Ok, now onto the trip report.

September is here in the Uintas. You would not have known it on Sunday at the Jeep. It was scorching hot and I almost felt over dressed. It's a holiday weekend, but I figured a overnighter on the tail end of the holiday would give me a chance for some good camping, stars, and some fishing. After having to wait a minute for a spot to park at the Pass Lake Trailhead, I put on the pack and headed in. This trail starts downhill but regains all that elevation as you head for the pass. The meadows are looking like they are on the tail end of the season as they were a mix of green and yellow. A wet year has left a lot of scree in the trail which only got more problematic as I gained elevation. I made the Kamas/Cuberant junction in 26 minutes. I leap frogged several hikers and a group of backpackers on the way in. Going Ultralight has its advantages. The hike as you climb was greener than I have ever seen it. Once above the last meadow the trail scree was tricky, but I managed a straight push to the top of the pass. I stopped for a view of course because it is one of the most beautiful overlooks in the Uintas in my opinion. Then I pushed off the pass, into the basin, and made my way down to Cuberant #2, then finally to my camp at Cuberant #3. 1 hour and 20 minutes from car to camp. I think that may be a new record for me!

I set up my tent and got camp essentials situated. I then put together my fly rod and went fishing. On my sixth cast I had a very nice Cutthroat on the line. They started lining up one right after another for about 45 minutes. Then the action just died down. I figured that was a sign to gather my fire wood for the evening and scope out where I was going to shoot from once night falls. Once I had that done, I figured since the lake went glass I'd scope out a spot on the other side for the Milky Way and do a little more fishing. I found good spot and mentally mapped the route as I would be walking over a creek and a wet area with holes in the dark. I tossed out a line and got a few hits, but nothing landed. I figured maybe I used up my luck earlier. Nope! I moved to a royal wolf and the brookies were savagely attacking it! Some of the funnest fishing all summer as these fish were jumping out of the water striking my fly! Twilight moved in and I headed back to camp to put on the jacket and get some dinner going.

After dark I got my fire going. The moon took a while to set before I could start to shoot the Milky Way so I had a wait for a bit. Once the moon was gone I retraced my steps in the dark and was surprised how well I had memorized my route. the Milky Way was high and bright, but you can see the galactic center is starting to move to the west and it will be out of sight soon. I finished my shots up and then went back to the other side, set up a star trail and let the camera run while I went back to camp to enjoy my fire. I had a nice fire and reminisced of trips in here previously. After a couple of hours I retrieved my camera from the lake, coaled out my fire, and turned in.

Morning came and I got up, made tea and breakfast, then packed it up. I wanted to get over the pass before it got hot, and I timed it perfectly. The down climb on the way out has a lot of loose rock on it so be careful on the way out. There are still flowers in bloom along the trail, and it still looked like full on summer up there. I took my time enjoying the walk and after about an hour and some change I was standing at the Jeep again. Another great trip into a place that I love to visit. Fall is on our doorstep. Just a few more weeks and the leaves will start turning as we draw nearer to winters return in the high terrain. If the weather cooperates I am hoping to get out until the snow returns. Enjoy the post, more adventures to come!